Beijing: Insider Travel Guide

( CNN) Important things happen in Beijing. You can feel this everywhere in the city of virtually 20 million people.

In the years before and after the Beijing 2008 Olympics, modern wonders of glass and chrome have appeared. It all constructs Beijing’s cityscape a study in superlatives; the grand scale of the city planning a campaign for headlines.

And yet, there’s a Beijing that’s growing organically on a human scale, particularly within the narrow hutongs, tiny alleys that separate traditional courtyard homes.

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